Rooting Crown of Thorns can be done in many, varied ways. If you just started your collection and would like to propagate a favorite color to gift to your friends and relatives, this post is for you.
This post will be a 2-part series. In this article I will talk about the traditional way of rooting Crowns and in the second part I will tackle the master growers’ method.
In my years of growing these beauties, and after reading hundreds of internet webpages on how to root cuttings successfully, I have developed my personal method of rooting. I have two methods....but in this post, I will talk about my traditional system.
You will need:
- Clean rooting medium devoid of fertilizers
- A sharp knife or razor blade and alcohol
- A mature and healthy cutting
- A small plastic pot
It is best practice to use clean, fertilizer-free medium when rooting COT. A blend of perlite, peat, and coco coir at 50-50 ratio would be good. If coco coir is not available in your area, you can order it online or just skip it totally as cuttings will successfully root with just peat-perlite mix. I do like to use it because coconut coir contains high levels of phosphorus which is an important element for root growth (as well as flower development). Moisten the medium just enough, it should be more on the dry side than on the wet side. If you take a scoop on your palm and squeeze it and if water will drip, then add more dry medium. The soil should not form into a ball on your palm, it should be loose instead.
When taking cuttings, do it in the early morning(if you are rooting during summer) for the cuttings to avoid too much moisture loss. Use a very sharp knife or razor blade, sterilize it well with a 70% alcohol. Choose a branch or stem mature enough, at least 4-month-old and long enough, minimum 4 inches, and with the razor/knife make a one-strike, decisive chop. Cut off all the leaves and stick it in the now-ready pot with rooting medium. Do not water. Position the pot in a bright spot away from direct sunlight, away from rain and harsh wind (to avoid toppling).
When to water? This depends on what season you are rooting (summer, winter?), where the cutting is sitting (inside a hot greenhouse?), how tiny is the pot, how porous is the medium used. One helpful tip is that the medium should not be left bone dry, that it should be constantly moist. If the cutting is left too dry for too long, it will desiccate, and rooting will be delayed if it will even root at all. In summer, check the holes at the bottom of the pot every two days to see if it needs water. During the colder months, watering can be done once a week or every 10 days.
When the cutting starts producing leaves, move your plant to a brighter area where it can get a few hours of early morning or late afternoon sun and adjust the watering schedule as well. Again, keep the soil constantly moist and not soggy.
When to fertilize? Cuttings can root from 2-3 weeks and are ready to be fertilized. Check the roots before fertilizing. Any liquid fertilizer with a high middle number is good to use. Feed very lightly.
Cuttings need to be checked regularly because fungus that cause root rot grow very fast. Sanitation is highly important around the cutting. The build up of molds, algae should be avoided to prevent fungus development.